Cuir Ottoman (Parfums d'Empire, 2006, Marc-Antoine Corticchiato)

Leather, iris, Egyptian jasmine, styrax, tolu balsam, benzoin and incense.

I am very fond of earthy, natural animal smells. I am not that keen on scents which seem designed to disguise the scent of the body, especially those described as "fresh" or "invigorating". If I wish to be invigorated, I will take a cold shower. I certainly do not wish to smell of shower gel. And what better way to not smell of the bathroom than Parfum d'Empire's Cuir Ottoman, a fragrance created to bring the scents of the Ottoman controlled territories, from the very gates of Vienna to southern Europe and Persia into one rich mixture of decadent exoticism.

Initially the fragrance is a mixture of leather and tobacco, the tobacco being more redolent of Turkish oriental tobacco than Havana Ligero. Some say they get an impression of incense; I feel it is more tobacco but this only lasts for a few minutes. Thereafter the scent changes and the tobacco element becomes muted.

The second thing I notice about the fragrance is how well it mixes with the natural smell of skin that has seen a little sunlight. Even though the scent is quite strong, one truly wears this scent, it does not wear you. There is still an obvious leather base note to the fragrance throughout the day but this is tempered by a slightly floral, almost rose-like aroma combined with a talcum powder scent which manifests itself after a half hour or so. There is also perhaps a hint of sandalwood. The floral and the leather combine to describe the delicate eroticism of a westerner's impression of Persia with the stern authority of Ottoman imperial might. It is fragrence made for a West European impression of an alien culture and as such it manages mystery and strength: a heady combination.

This fragrance is listed in many places as being feminine. I really cannot understand how. It is deeply animalic, albeit in a debauched, decadent way, and is as unisex a fragrance as I can conceive of. If you favour a powerful but understated fragrance that combines with the skin's natural scent to produce a sensual, smoky but very natural perfume then this could be the scent for you.