Sunday 13 December 2009

Les Nez: Parfums d'Auteurs


Les Nez is a new(ish) perfume house. It comprises two noses, both female - Isabelle Doyen and Sandrine Videault. I like their playful, crazy fragrance names, but they attach textbook examples of wanky, pretentious copy to their packaging, so awful that I almost couldn't bring myself to smell them. Let's compare their descriptions to mine.

The Unicorn Spell

If by dawn still linger on your skin mixed scents of leaves, frost and violet blooms, and that relentless yearning for stellar sights, you will know that, at night, you felt the milky breath of a unicorn.

Smells of ancient ideals of honor and fundamental goodness. The "Joan of Arc" of perfumes.

Parma violets.

Let me Play the Lion

Scents of dusty trails,
Of lightly sweetened ochre,
Of sun-weathered wood,
Of silence swept
by mild breezes,
Of skies open like an endless
azure cut oozing signs
of the coming storm.

Like watching incense smoke curl lazily through a sunbeam as it wafts, disappears, and returns.

Lemon and aniseed to start with; very sweet. Quickly fades to absinthe, but SO bitter. So bitter that I made the Orange Face (i.e. the face I made, the other day, when I tried to eat a whole orange, peel and all, because I heard it was a good cold remedy. I hadn't really predicted how bitter it was going to be. So bitter I nearly threw up). Dries down much better though - spicy and cold, certainly dusty as it claims. Pretty good all in all.

L'Antimatière

An invisible ink that leaves a trace,
Foreseen rather than felt,
Persistent
Yet whispered,
Like a creased bed linen scent
wandering along your curves...
Performs a series of understated scent tricks and olfactory maneuvers that bypass security and sneak in through the back entrance...

Oh god, I really want to hate this. Fact is, when first sprayed, you can't smell it at all. I was hoping to be able to write something about the bloody Emperor and his bloody new clothes. You are selling people water, for god's sake, and writing stupid poetry about invisible ink! But coming back to it after a few minutes and... I like it. I do. It doesn't smell like a thing. It smells like things all around us; it smells like people. The Scented Salamander puts it very well:

It smells like the inside of a leather bag, a familiar coat, a favorite scarf, half-abandoned well-used gloves, a presence and the sum of one's experience of life. It smells as if for years and years this perfume had scented familiar objects around you. It could perhaps even be the smell of your house...

This is precisely correct and I have to admit that it's a very clever scent. I'm not sure I'd buy it as I think it's too subtle for me, but it's definitely the most interesting of the three. Oh, and can I please add: 'back entrance'. Huh huh. Huh-huhh huh.

Sample frenzy

I honestly have no idea how five months have passed without posting; I suppose we've all been busy with work and life and other stuff. I have amassed vast numbers of tiny perfume samples, so I thought I'd attempt to blitz through them all in one session. Here are the results of my tests, accompanied by quick notes, typed as I go.

Many thanks to the man in Liberty who picked up fistfuls of samples and chucked them into my bag, much in the style of coal-shovelling.

Citron Citron from Miller Harris

We start with a kick of lemon and bergamot which reminds me of Eau d'Italie from Le Sirenuse; soon we get other fruits and herbs and now it's even more like Eau d'Italie. Actually, I'm starting to wonder if there's some kind of copyright infringement going on. Not sure which scent came first; I love them both.

Fleur du Matin from Miller Harris

Great big hit of lily and jasmine which fades very fast to a kind of powdery, underwear drawer feel. Not very interesting and not really my thing, to be honest. I can't really imagine why you'd wear it unless you have a great longing to smell like generic hotel soap.

Crystal d'Ambre from Keiko Mecheri

Wow, amber and a bit of sweet patchouli to start; very oriental with frankincense and sandalwood. I'm a sucker for orientals but this ends up a little dull and almost lavendery; not as interesting as some of the alternatives (Alamut by Lorenzo Villoresi, Lyric by Amouage). It's not generic hotel stuff, though, and I will use up the rest of the sample bottle.

Rose d'Homme from Les Parfums de Rosine

Lots and lots and lots of rose, very sweet and not hommey at all. Slight strawberry flavouring topnote which (thankfully) fades quickly, leaving patchouli and leather. Definitely better than it started, but crikey, it smells exactly like pot pourri. Old pot pourri. Dusty and dull.

Gypsy Water from Byredo

This is more like it. Lovely, citric green to start with, and an amber/sandalwood base which is warm and woody and lovely. There's incense too, but not the smoky high church oriental frankincense - it's a much lighter resin, copal I think, perhaps benzoin. It puts me in mind of an old, warm library. Superb.

Passion from SpaceNK

AaaaaarrrrrrgggGGGGHHH get it off get it off jesus christ! Like if you wanted to remove varnish from a chair equipped with nothing but the raw power of jasmine. After a few minutes it smells almost exactly like white wine vinegar. I hear it has been discontinued already, though. Phew.

Winners: Gypsy Water, Citron Citron
Losers: Passion, Fleur du Matin